I always feel guilty coming back here after so long without a recipe, but if you’d tasted the string of mediocre dishes to come out of my kitchen recently you’d probably say a prayer of thanks. I don’t know if I should blame myself or the food, but in the last couple of weeks we’ve had bitter, water-logged eggplant, chicken with a texture like vulcanized rubber, and a chocolate cake that tasted more like peanuts than chocolate (and no, before you ask, there were no peanuts in it…). Luckily, I’ve had a pile of things mounting on my virtual desk that I’ve been meaning to tell you about – news, reviews, and that sort of stuff – so hopefully they’ll tide you over until I find out where my recipe mojo escaped to, ambush it from behind, drag it home kicking and screaming and chain it to the stove.

1. Storyville Coffee

If you’ve been to Seattle, you know you don’t have to look far for good coffee. In fact it may be the one thing here more ubiquitous than the rain. I’m not talking about Starbucks, either; throughout the Pacific Northwest small artisan coffee roasters like Vita, Zoka, Umbria and Stumptown have been upping the ante in recent years to the point where you can’t take three steps without bumping into a cup of coffee that is not only fantastically good, but was probably fairly-traded and sustainably-grown too. With such excellent roasters being a dime a dozen around here, I wasn’t particularly quick to jump on the email sent to me by Ryan Gamble, co-president of the Seattle-based Storyville coffee company, since I’d never heard of them and I wasn’t really interested in reviewing what I thought would be just another good cup of coffee. Luckily he didn’t give up, though, and invited me to meet him for breakfast at a local bakery on Bainbridge Island, where it turns out, the company has their roasting studio. Intrigued by the local connection, I agreed, and spent a fun and fascinating morning with Ryan and the Storyville team.

As it turns out, Storyville is not your average Seattle micro-roaster. For one thing, they don’t even market themselves locally; their idea is that people throughout the US should have access to as great of coffee as we do in the Pacific Northwest, and so they’ve built their business model around quickly delivering ultra-fresh coffee by mail. Also, instead of offering a myriad of different geographic-origin and flavor options, they focus on one carefully crafted, expertly-roasted blend which they offer in caffeinated and decaf versions. (Admittedly I’m still a little dubious about the one-size-fits-all model, as tastes obviously vary; however I do think it’s wise for a small company to focus on doing one thing perfectly than a lot of things imperfectly.) What really struck me about these guys, however, is their passion – not just for coffee, but for their humanitarian ideals, though it is being realized in some untraditional ways. Explaining how difficult it is for a small company like theirs to monitor the human and environmental conditions at the source of all their beans – and not wanting to make claims they cannot personally verify* – Ryan told me they’ve decided to put their conscience to work at the profit end. During the month of May, for example, Storyville is giving away 100% of their revenue – not just profits, but all money earned, up to $1,000,000 – to the International Justice Mission, a human-rights organization that seeks to end slavery and human trafficking around the world. And Ryan tells me they’re committed to charitable giving for the long term, and that even after this huge campaign in May ends a large percentage of their profits will continue to go to organizations like the IMJ.

So that’s all well and good, but what about the coffee? Well, I had the chance to taste it both in their studio and at home, and I have to say, it is very good. I don’t think I’d go so far as to say it’s the best cup of coffee I’ve ever had, and their blend will probably not be to everyone’s taste, but to mine is very balanced, smooth and complex, particularly in the first three or four days after roasting. And crucially, they do make sure you get it very fresh, no matter how far – or how close – to their studio you live.

To read all about Storyville, their coffee and their ‘Give It All Away in May’ campaign, please visit their website.

* Update: I’ve posted an email I just received from Ryan in the comments, where he gives a little more info on the environmental and humanitarian standards their bean supplier adheres to.

2. Fog Linen Work

I fell in madly in love with Japanese designer Yumiko Sekine’s rustic, simple designs in Lithuanian linen the first time I ran across them on Design Within Reach; her beautifully textured tablecloths, napkins and towels are like works of art in cloth. Unfortunately DWR only carries a small selection of her range, as I found out when I started browsing Fog Linen’s Japanese site. Fortunately, Yumiko makes it easy for anyone to order her linen no matter where in the world you are – you just send email her a list of the products you want (which does take some sleuthing if you don’t speak Japanese, but not much) and she ships them to you (very affordably) by Japanese airmail. I bought a selection of kitchen towels in shades of blue, brown and flax that are so gorgeous I don’t know if I’ll ever be able to bring myself to use them. But that’s beside the point, right?

To order direct from Fog Linen, browse their catalogue and follow the linked instructions. Although it isn’t mentioned, Yumiko also accepts Paypal.

Photo from foglinenwork.com.

3. Reusable shopping bags

Okay, here’s where I need some help from you. I’ve been eyeing those reusable shopping bags that fold up into inconspicuous packages and store in your purse or car, and finally come to the realization that I need a few. As much as I bristle at the idea that you need to buy plastic bags to save plastic bags, I’ve realized that all the good intentions in the world will never compel me to remember to carry the reusable bags I already own. The problem is that there are so many different ones on the market now, and my head is spinning trying to decide which brand to go with. Between Envirosax, Chico, Baggu, RuMe, Acme, Flip and Tumble and Use it Again Sam there seems to be a whole universe of reusable shopping bags, each with their own fervent fan club. What makes it harder is that I’m not entirely sure what I need. Do I want a gusseted, square or flat shape? Do I want one handle or two? Do I want whimsical patterns on the fabric or will solid colors suit me just fine? Will I find stuffing, folding or rolling into a tube the least hassle after every use, and which design will take up the least room in my purse? And then there’s the most important question: will I actually use them?

In other words, any experiences, opinions or advice will be gratefully received.

4. Fat

Have you ever bought a new cookbook and upon opening it realized that this is the one thing that was missing from your life and you didn’t even know it? Okay, maybe I’m exaggerating a little bit (particularly since I haven’t actually made anything from it yet…), but this book is a revelation, and if you haven’t got your hands on a copy yet, do so now. Fascinating, intelligent and deliciously naughty, Fat celebrates animal fat in all its edible incarnations. Arguing that it’s high time to move past our deeply-entrenched (and, it turns out, faulty) assumption that animal fat is unhealthy, Jennifer McLagan offers a selection of recipes so tempting they’ll banish the fat-o-phobe in you forever. I mean, there’s a whole third of the book devoted to butter for crying out loud, with recipes for things like brown butter ice cream, salted butter tart and my future death-bed request, the Kouign Amann from Chez Michel in Paris. Be still my beating heart!
p.s. The James Beard Foundation liked it too – it just won their book of the year award.

5. Abruzzo Earthquake Relief

I’m sure you heard of the terrible earthquake that hit Abruzzo last month, virtually destroying the city of L’Aquila. I was devastated to learn that the beautiful, majestic city I visited barely a year ago is in ruins, and many of the wonderful people I met there have likely lost homes, jobs and loved ones. From my friends elsewhere in Abruzzo I’ve heard that the earthquake has impacted the entire region, even the areas that didn’t suffer physical damage. They tell me the tourism industry has been particularly hard-hit, as thousands of people who were planning trips this summer have cancelled. On top of the recession, you can imagine what a devastating impact this is having on the local economy. I know funds are tight for everyone, but if you can, please consider donating to the Red Cross relief effort in L’Aquila. Or consider planning a trip to Abruzzo, one of the most beautiful and least-known regions of Italy. I can think of few more enjoyable ways to help people in need.

Oh, okay, since you’ve made it this far I’ll give you a bonus sixth item: A few weeks ago I was thrilled to be included along with forty-nine other fabulous sites in the London Times’ rundown of their favorite food blogs. As you may know, they’re working their way through the list, posting a Q&A with each blogger, and last week was my turn to be interviewed. Check it out here!

 

Kaffir Lime Cordial

 

I’ve never been much of a trend spotter, and even less of a trend setter – just ask my friends from high school how many other people were wearing thrift-store kaftans. (Answer: none.) So, it would probably be wise to refrain from making any kind of predictions about the kinds of things that are likely to take the culinary world by storm in the coming months, but I have such a strong feeling about this one I’m going to stick my neck out. Call it a hunch or remarkable stroke of foresight, but I’m betting that soon, on drinks trays across the land, gone will be the gourmet juice cocktails, the expensive imported waters in futuristic glass bottles, and the flavored iced teas in every color of the rainbow, and in their place will be small pitchers of the intensely aromatic syrups called cordials.

Here’s why.

1. They’re cheap. As in pennies-per-drink cheap. And for whom is that not welcome news in these lean times? Of course if you choose to flavor yours with white truffle or fresh Himalayan goji berries they won’t be, but just about everything else will give you a pretty good cost-to-drink ratio. That is, unless you insist on diluting your cordials with bling.

2. They’re homemade. Along with cheap, I’m told anything made at home is all the rage now. Who knew? And to think, I was doing it all along – maybe I’m more of a trend setter than I imagined!

3. They’re sophisticated. Certainly much more sophisticated than plain water, no matter how groovy the design of the bottle it comes in. How cool will your guests think you are when you offer them a cucumber-cardamom cordial instead?

4. They’re versatile. As-is, they make great party options for kids and designated drivers. For those who want something harder, they easily double as cocktail mixers. Just top your glass up with a splash of gin or vodka, and you’ve just turned your refreshing afternoon thirst-quencher into a sexy evening tipple.

5. They allow you to stretch your creative muscles. Just think of all the flavor combinations at your fingertips! Off the top of my head, I’d say any of the following would make a killer cordial: lemon, ginger, rose water, vanilla, blood or regular orange, mandarin, lavender, pandan leaf, cinnamon, hibiscus, lemongrass, lemon verbena, mint, cracked cherry pits, and of course, the aforementioned cucumber and cardamom. Oh, not to mention just about any other fruit you can think of – and who knows, maybe even a few vegetables?

6. The British have been drinking them for ages, and if there’s one corner of the culinary galaxy the Brits have mastered, it’s the liquid one. Don’t believe me? Just consider British ales, the gin and tonic, the Pimm’s Cup cocktail, Earl Grey with a twist of lemon… See? In Britain, where cordials also masquerade under the name ‘squash’ (I haven’t figured out what the difference is), a good half-aisle in any supermarket is full of them, in every flavor from black currant to elderflower to lemon-barley (yeah, that one confounded me too, but it’s actually not half bad).

So there you have it. Are cordials the next cupcakes? Well, to be honest I don’t mind either way; the most important thing to me is that no one goes home thirsty.

Kaffir Lime Cordial

This is my recipe for a lime cordial with a twist, namely the delicate flavor of kaffir lime leaves. I also use this recipe as a template for other kinds of cordial, which I hope you’ll do too. A few thoughts: depending on the flavors you choose, you might want to substitute a tablespoon or so of powdered citric acid for lime or lemon juice for a more neutral tartness. As for sweetening, I imagine you could substitute a natural sweetener such as agave syrup for the sugar, though you’ll have to play around with the exact amount. Also, as far as spices go, use whole ones, not ground. Fruit cordials are no less difficult, but will probably take some experimentation to find the ideal ratios; I would start with a pound or so of fruit, coarsely chopped or crushed, and take it from there. Oh, and keep in mind that tart fruits – particularly things like raspberries, pomegranate, rhubarb, etc – will need less acid added to the syrup.
Yield: just under 2 cups syrup; recipe can easily be doubled

2 cups (400g) sugar
1 1/2 cups (325ml) water
8 kaffir lime leaves, sliced into ribbons
1/2 cup (125ml) lime juice
still or sparkling water and ice, for serving

Bring the sugar, water and lime leaves to a rolling boil in a medium-sized saucepan, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat to medium and boil gently for about 7-8 minutes, until the syrup smells intensely of lime leaves. Add the lime juice and simmer gently until the liquid begins to thicken, about another 8-10 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool completely. Strain the syrup into a clean glass bottle, discarding the lime leaves. Cover and refrigerate; like this the syrup will keep for a month.

To make a cordial, combine one tablespoon syrup with about 12oz (375ml) cold water and stir to combine. Serve over ice, if you like.

 

Oeufs en Meurette

And in just under the wire… a post for March. Is the entire month gone already? I just can’t keep track anymore. But if it is, and that is precisely what my calendar is telling me, then winter is gone too, and that is welcome news. Am I the only one who has been itching to see the backside of this winter? I can’t remember the last time I had so few good things to say about an entire season. They usually have their ups and downs, but this one seems to have had more than its fair share of downs. The weather, actually, wasn’t that bad; apart from that freak two feet of snow that brought the Pacific Northwest to its knees in December it’s been pretty mild – sunnier, even, than I was expecting. Nevertheless, between the never-ending depressing news on all channels, the havoc the economic crisis is wreaking on our careers, and – as if to show us that when things seem bad, they can always get worse – a sudden family health crisis that has left us all struggling to cope, these have been three or four months I would like to lock into a box and never have to think about again.

There was one ray of sunshine that pierced the gloom, though, and saved this winter from being a total write-off. In January I finally got to meet one of my blogging heroes and longtime friends, the incredible Matt Armendariz, when he came to Seattle for a weekend visit. I find it hard to believe that there’s anyone left out there who doesn’t know Matt (he’s been on Martha Stewart, for crying out loud!), but in case you’ve been living under a rock just scoot yourself over to his blog for a minute and marvel – this guy oozes talent out of every pore. He’s wickedly funny too, and every bit as smart and well-spoken in person as he is online. He (somewhat unfairly) even has more friends in Seattle than we do, but thankfully he was happy to share, and brought a couple of them* along to meet us for a lazy brunch at Café Campagne in the Pike Place Market on a gorgeously sunny Sunday morning.

We had a great time that morning, talking about food and blogging and hashing out the Seattle vs. L.A. debate. We may have talked about other things too, but unfortunately I can’t remember; you see, there’s this big gap in my memory – let’s say about half an hour’s worth, or maybe more – during which time I can’t recall anything but a plate of eggs. It was kind of like in a movie when the dialogue subsides, some cheesy music starts playing, and all you can see is the object of interest moving suggestively in slow motion – in this case egg yolk oozing slowly across a glistening puddle of red. Actually, I wouldn’t be surprised if that effect was invented for the first time at Café Campagne, when some cinematographer ordered a plate of oeufs en meurette. Really, I think it’s pretty likely.

The funny thing is, I wasn’t even hungry going into the restaurant. In fact, I was still digesting the previous night’s dinner, an epic meat extravaganza that in its own right will no doubt also rank as one of the top meals of the year (thank you again M&D!), and consequently all I was planning on ordering was a croissant, or maybe a piece of dry toast to soak up some of the excess wine still sloshing around in my belly. But then the menu came, I saw a description of a dish that included poached eggs, garlic croutons and a foie-gras-laced red wine sauce, and all of a sudden, I couldn’t think straight I was so hungry. And that’s where my memory of everything but the eggs ends.

As I learned later, I inadvertently stumbled onto a dish that enjoys quite a cult following in Seattle. In fact, it seems those oeufs have appeared on just about every list of the city’s best brunch dishes for years. I didn’t know this then, though – all I knew was that that dish of poached eggs in red wine sauce was not only the best restaurant brunch I’d ever eaten, but among the best restaurant dishes period, and that it was taking considerable self-control to not plant my face in the middle of my plate and start licking. Yes, it was that good.

When I got home, of course, the first thing I did was start researching those eggs. It didn’t surprise me much to find out that oeufs en meurette is a Burgundian dish (it’s also sometimes called oeufs à la bourguignonne), where just about everything is simmered, braised or poached in wine, but I was taken aback by how many different variations on it there are. The recipes range from the cheap and easy (boil red wine and canned stock, poach eggs, serve) to the considerably involved and expensive (make your own beef stock and demi glace, don’t even think of using anything but a genuine burgundy). Then, of course, there was the matter of the foie gras in Cafe Campagne’s version; I don’t know about you, but that’s one ingredient I just about never have lying around the house. At any rate, after reading through about a dozen different recipes, I decided to cobble one together based on what I had, using the technique advocated by Julia Child, which coincidentally happened to be one of the simplest I found.

Thankfully, Julia didn’t let me down. This isn’t quite as good as Cafe Campagne’s version, of course, but it does come admirably close, even without the demi-glace and foie gras. And actually, the fact that the dish is so good even without them makes me love it even more, since it delivers so much from so little. Taste-wise, it’s a riot of flavors and textures – the soft, oozing yolks, the crunchy croutons, the silky, winey sauce, the salty bacon; time-wise, I doubt I spend more than thirty minutes from start to finish, and so long as you don’t insist on cracking open a Côte de Nuits for the sauce, it’s even budget-friendly. Add to that the fact that it can be had without a ferry ride and an hour wait at one of Seattle’s busiest restaurants, and I can’t think of a single thing to criticize about this dish… or a single reason not to eat it all the time.

Now that’s some good news for a change, isn’t it?

Oeufs en Meurette
 

Although we had these eggs for brunch in the restaurant, at home we eat them for dinner (how often is it you can justify having eggs and bacon for dinner?) alongside a green salad. Usually I like to use a hearty, mildly sour country bread for the croutons; for a brunch dish, though, brioche or a similarly soft, light bread might be a better option – just make sure it has enough structure to hold up when saturated with sauce. And a word about the stock: of course homemade beef stock is the ideal here, so if you have some on hand by all means use it. Otherwise, use a good brand of commercial beef stock, or even chicken stock, so long as it has a good, meaty flavor. As for wine, go with something drinkable but not expensive – a cheap pinot noir or syrah will do nicely. And should you have any demi-glace or foie gras lying around, I’m sure the dish wouldn’t suffer from a bit of either.

Source: Adapted from Mastering the Art of French Cooking: Vol I, by Julia Child
Serves: 4 as a main course

For the sauce:
2 cups (500ml) rich beef stock (or chicken stock, in a pinch)
2 cups (500ml) red wine
1 bay leaf
1 sprig fresh thyme
1 small shallot, minced
1 medium carrot, peeled and diced
pinch cayenne pepper
pinch black pepper
4 tablespoons (60g) unsalted butter, at room temperature, divided
2 tablespoons flour

For the garnish:
4 ounces (120g) smoked bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
8 ounces (240g) small button mushrooms, halved
salt

For the eggs:
8 very fresh eggs
1 teaspoon vinegar

To serve:
8 slices pain de campagne, or any hearty country-style bread
1 large clove garlic, halved
fresh thyme, for garnish

For the sauce, combine the stock, wine, herbs, shallots, carrot and seasonings in a heavy-bottomed pot and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Boil rapidly until the liquid has reduced to two cups (500ml). Strain out the shallots and herbs. Blend 2 tablespoons of the butter with the flour, working them together into a smooth paste. Off the heat, whisk the butter-flour mixture into the wine. Return it to the heat and boil for about 30 seconds, until thickened. Cover and set aside.

While the wine mixture is boiling, heat a frying pan over medium-high heat and cook the bacon pieces until crisp. Remove to a paper towel with a slotted spoon. Add the mushrooms to the bacon fat in the pan and fry until golden-brown, about 5 minutes. Season lightly with salt and set aside.

To poach the eggs, bring a saucepan with water to a depth of 2 inches to a gentle simmer. Add the vinegar. Break the eggs one at a time into a small bowl or ramekin and gently tip them into the water. Poach each egg for 3-4 minutes, until the white is cooked but the yolk is still runny. Remove with a slotted spoon to a bowl of warm lightly-salted water (or, if you’re going to be serving them immediately, just to a plate).

Just before serving, toast the slices of bread and rub each one with the cut side of a garlic clove. Rewarm the sauce and whisk in the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Taste and correct the seasoning if needed.

To serve, place place two slices of bread on each plate. Top each one with a poached egg. Divide the sauce between the plates, and top with the fried mushrooms and bacon. Garnish with some fresh thyme and serve immediately.

*Including this super guy, who it turns out lives literally a block away from us. How’s that for a small world? Oh, and he ordered the oeufs too, so you know he’s got taste.